Just 3 hours southeast of Matagalpa lies the sleepy beach town of Las Peñitas. Far from the crowds, noise, and general party scene of the more well-known San Juan del Sur to the south, Las Peñitas offers another type of beach excursion that is no less amazing.
Because it is not as well known as San Juan del Sur, the prices at hotels and restaurants are cheaper, the beaches are cleaner and less crowded, and you don’t have to worry about vendors coming up to you every 5 minutes selling hammocks or sunglasses.
In fact, you don’t have to worry about anyone selling anything to you… at any time. Because of its relatively undiscoveredness (is that a word?), this is not your typical beach town where you would expect to find surf shops on every corner selling any number of beach-related necessities like towels or sunscreen. Forget about that idea right now. There is one mini-mart-esque store ( they are called pulperias in Nicaragua) that will sell you snacks and water, but that’s about it.
Bottom Line: Bring everything you need. That means towel, sunblock, bathing suit, extra bathing suit in case your bottoms get carried away after you bite it on a particularly gnarly wave, flip flops, shampoo, floss, sunglasses, etc. Las Peñitas has everything you could ever want, but nothing that you need when your contact falls out of your eye.
In short, Las Peñitas really doesn’t know what it has. This is a one-street town where every other beach-facing house is either abandoned or in disrepair. There are a handful of hostels and hotels that cater to tourists, but it’s easy to mistake many of them as closed from the street.
That being said, don’t judge a book by its cover. Just take one stroll along the beach and you will be in awe of its pristine coastline dotted with palm trees to one side, and rock formations jutting out of the water on the other. Several surf shops line the beach offering board rentals and lessons as well – Another secret: Las Peñitas offers up waves just as good as SJDS.
Several hotels and hostels here are situated right on the beach, meaning you can literally roll out of bed, walk out your door, and have your toes in the sand to enjoy a $2 breakfast piña colada in less than 30 seconds. Not bad for between $20-$35 a night for a private room, right?
- The chicken bus to Leon leaves Matagalpa at 6am sharp. Get up early. Sleep on the bus. It’s worth it.
- Once you arrive to Leon, take a taxi to the Sutiyaba Bus Station. This should run you about 30c per person. On the corner of the bus station, you will catch another chicken bus bound for Poneloya and Las Peñitas. Hop on. This leg will cost you 13c pp.
- The chicken bus will first take you to Poneloya, then turn around and head for Las Peñitas. Again, this town is only one street, about 2km long so you can’t get lost. Just ask someone on the bus, or look out the RIGHT-BEACH-FACING- WINDOW to see where your hotel is.
- It is a good idea to book your accommodations prior to leaving Matagalpa. We recommend Playa Roca ($7/dorm, $20/semi-private room, $35/private room with a/c per night). This place is amazing and RIGHT ON THE BEACH.
- Most places don’t offer refrigerators, so you will most likely be eating all of your meals out. We recommend Barca de Oro. This place is also an awesome hotel, if you find that Playa Roca is booked. They have the best fish tacos you have ever had in your life. Their ambiance is awesome, and they are affordable (around 80c-120c for a meal) They are located at the very end of the bus route. You can’t miss it.
- Again – Pack smart. Don’t forget your towel! If you are planning on staying in a dorm, don’t forget to bring a good lock.
- There are no ATMs in Las Peñitas so get money out before you leave Matagalpa or Leon. Most hotels and restaurants take credit cards, and will keep a tab for you for food and drinks, but have some cash handy – especially to get back.
- Getting back: The chicken bus comes through town every hour and blasts its horn to let you know it’s on its way. The last bus to Leon is at 6:40.
- The last chicken bus from Leon to Matagalpa is at 2:45. You can catch it at the main bus station. Be aware that since this is an Express Bus, you will need to buy your ticket before you board. We suggest you get to the bus station no later than 30 minutes before your bus is scheduled to depart. Buy your ticket from the driver as you get on the bus - you will be given a ticket with an assigned seat.
Now all that’s left to do is plan your journey! And above all, for the love of God, don’t forget your towel.