Food in Nicaragua!!

One of the things travelers worry about the most when they’re away from home is FOOD! Will I like the food? Will I know what is in my food? What if I’m just in the mood for some comfort food, will I be able to find it?

In our experience the food in Nicaragua is fairly tame. Nothing too spicy! Unless you're brave enough to use the bottle of red salsa that can be commonly found on the table in restaurants! It’s up to you if you trust what’s in that plastic bottle on the table. We always stayed away from it! :-) 

In fact it’s a lot of fast food and fried food. If you like pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs and chicken you’ll be just fine! 

As far as traditional food goes, the dish you’ll encounter daily is gallo pinto, pinto beans usually served with white rice.

For breakfast they serve gallo pinto with a fried egg, tortilla and a piece of cheese. Commonly for lunch chicken is served with gallo pinto, cabbage salad and fried plantains.

You’ll see women cooking corn tortillas on flat grills on the street. These are great and very filling! Usually the same lady will sell boiled corn on the cob as well. Nothing like corn with corn for a meal!

Enchiladas and tamales are served wrapped in banana leaves. The tamales are usually just plain cornmeal, nothing fancy, but you can add them to cheese or fresh avocado and you have a meal. 

The enchiladas are not what you expect. They are more like a fried empanada filled with flavored rice. The tacos in Nicaragua will not be what you expect, they are more like fried taquitos with shredded meat inside.  


 



Be prepared for most food to be served in plastic bags. Bags of pinto beans, bags of pastries and bags of fruit. Nicaragua has a small obsession with plastic bags. Even serving drinks in plastic bags with a straw. Not environmentally friendly, but                   convenient. 

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Traveling from Leon to San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua in one day!

If you’re in a hurry or just over having the cultural experience of the slow, crowded travel on a chicken bus, you’re in luck!! There are shuttle companies that offer travel between all the major cities in Nicaragua. They’re a little more expensive, however completely worth it if you identify with the first sentence of this blog. 

You can find these shuttles advertised in hostels, tour companies, and sometimes just on the street on handwritten pieces of paper. All the shuttles we saw left around 9:00am. 

The prices and times we found:

Leon to the airport in Managua $12.00 2 hours driving time

Leon to Granada $12.00 3 hours driving time

Leon to San Jorge Ferry in Rivas $21.00 4 hours driving time

Leon to San Juan del Sur $21.00 5 hours driving time

There was just one shuttle that dropped passengers off at all the stops along the way. It’s like a mini tour of the country! In Granada the shuttle went to each person’s hotel and dropped them off. We also stopped in Granada for 15 minutes at a smoothie shop to go to the bathroom and buy something to eat. Before we left Granada, we picked up passengers that were traveling south to Rivas or San Juan del Sur. 

In our experience, we were picked up in Leon at our hostel at 9am. Our bags were thrown on top of the van and strapped down for the ride. After all the stops, 6 1/2 hours later, we were dropped off at our hostel in San Juan del Sur. It was still an incredibly long travel day, but I have to say I was able to relax knowing that my belongings and myself were safe the entire time. For that security and the ability to stay in one vehicle the entire way, I would say it was totally worth the price. 

If you’re also trying to get from the north to the south of Nicaragua in one day, you can do it on the chicken buses. Just be prepared for a lot of transfers and you won’t know ahead of time if the bus connection will work out. Remember that most cities have more than one bus station and they are usually separated by busses going north and busses going south. You may have to take a taxi to another bus station to catch your next bus. 

Good luck and safe travels! 
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How to get to the Costa Rica Airport from San Jose

A taxi from downtown San Jose to the airport will cost you about $25 dollars. If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, take the bus! They run several times per hour. 

The bus station to look for in San Jose is called TUASA. It’s one block south of Avenida Central on Calle Tomás Guardía, however we were never able to find that street name anywhere but on a map. The bus station is located where Avenida Central turns into Paseo Colón, those two streets you’ll be able to find easily. 

The ride will cost you 520 colones or about $1.00 and it will take 30 minutes without traffic. The bus stop is right in front of the airport so don’t worry about knowing when to get off, you’ll see it! Safe Travels!

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Crossing the Border from Nicaragua to Costa Rica

Crossing the border from Nicaragua into Costa Rica is a lot cheaper than going the opposite direction! When you arrive to the border an attendant will check your passport before allowing you through the gate. After your passport is checked you will be lead to a booth where you will have to pay $1.00 (They didn’t say what it was for). Then you’ll enter an air-conditioned glass room where you’ll get your exit stamp to leave the country. Here you’ll have to pay $1.64 or 45 cordobas. And that’s it! You’ll exit the building and walk across the border 5 minutes.

Immigration building on the Nicaraguan side.

As you approach the other side you’ll want to stay to the right side of the road. On your right hand side you’ll see booths to buy bus tickets and on the left hand side you’ll see the immigration building. This building is where you’ll get your entrance stamp for Costa Rica. You’ll be given two immigration forms to fill out. Make sure you travel with a pen!

Booths to buy bus tickets.

You’ll give one of the immigration forms to the person behind the glass as well as your passport. Most likely they will ask you to show proof that you are leaving the country within the 30 day limit. Good new though, you won’t have to pay a thing to enter the country! After you have your stamp you’ll proceed to the next room where you’ll be asked to run your bags through a scanner and give your second immigration form to that person there.

Now you’re finished!! You’ll exit the building and need to get on a bus. You’re about 3 hours from Liberia Airport and 6 hours from San Jose. We took a bus called Central Lines which cost $12.00 dollars to go from the border to San Jose. It was a great bus with a bathroom on board and TVs to show movies, which helped pass the time. We stopped halfway through the trip at a restaurant to stretch our legs for 20 minutes and grab a bite to eat if we wanted. I would highly recommend this bus company!

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Volcano Boarding in Leon, Nicaragua

Check out one of the most unique and extreme sports in Central America! It is a must do during your trip to Nicaragua with Vaya Volunteers and Experience Exchange. Check out more at www.vayavolunteers.com

The Selva Negra

Just 30 minutes north of Matagalpa lies the Selva Negra. Here you will find an ecolodge,  nature reserve, coffee estate, farm, as well as event space. The entire reserve and surrounding property is owned by German couple Eddy and Mausi Kuhl, The Kuhls bought the property in 1975 from fellow German, Hans Bosche. Bosche founded the reserve and named it the Selva Negra in homage to the mountainous and picturesque region in southwest Germany, The Black Forest.

The Selva Negra

In terms of picturesque natural beauty, The Selva Negra well lives up to its name. It is situated in the cloud forest in the Matagalpa highlands and usually enjoys temperatures that are on average 5 - 10 degrees cooler than in the city. It is the perfect place to go for a day trip to get out of the city. Here you can spend the day hiking the many paths that surround the reserve, relaxing at the main lodge overlooking the lagoon and enjoying authentic GERMAN BEER - (one of the few places in Nicaragua where that is even possible), or taking one of the many tours they offer.

View of main lodge and restaurant from hostel

Hiking

The Selva Negra maintains more than 20 kilometers of hiking trails around the reserve. These trails range in difficulty level from easy to more advanced, so you can choose the best one to fit your skill level. All trails wind their way throughout the cloud forest, and any number of wild and different flora and fauna can be spotted along your way. You can pick up a map of all the trails and the grounds at the front desk.

 

Restaurant and Ecolodge

If you're in the mood for a more relaxing day, The restaurant at The Selva Negra is a great place to lose a couple of hours in a beautiful place. Decorated in full German style, it sits next to a lagoon where you can admire the swans and fish as you sit on the patio. Most of the food served here comes from their onsite farm, where they raise organic, hormone-free livestock and produce. Not to mention, this is THE place to enjoy fresh coffee straight from the source itself - for only $.50 a cup!!

Patio of restaurant during Oktoberfest

View of lagoon and German architecture around ecolodge

Double Private Room at Hostel $15/night/pp

If you have more than a day to spend, the ecolodge at the Selva Negra is an amazing getaway. They have rooms available for every budget.















Tours

Coffee Plant with red seeds just about ready for harvest

The Selva Negra hosts many impressive tours, including a farm tour where you can travel by bus and witness all the ins and outs of the organic production of food on the reserve, a chocolate tour, and by far their most well-known: the seed to cup coffee tour. Here you will be learn about the history of coffee in Nicaragua, as well as to get a chance to see first hand how the coffee is grown, harvested, processed at the wet-mill, and finally get to sample a cup of their home-grown brew for yourselves. Definitely NOT to be missed!

How to get there:

Catch the Chicken Bus from the South Bus Station in Matagalpa headed for Jinotega. The bus conveniently departs the city every 30 minutes. Tell the attendant taking your money that your destination is the Selva Negra - you should pay no more than 13 Cordobas for the ride.

Chicken Busses to Jinotega at South Bus Station in Matagalpa

The attendant will call out when you have reached the Selva Negra. From the bus stop, you need only to walk about 50 meters to the entrance of the Reserve. You can't miss it - there will be a tank on the side of the road placed there unintentionally and left over from the Nicaraguan Revolution.

Bus stop where you will get off and continue by foot

Sandinista tank marking the entrance

You will walk 1.5 km down an unpaved driveway towards the entrance, passing wild poinsettias, fields of coffee, bubbling streams, and breathtaking views of the Matagalpa Highlands. Once you reach the entrance, you will be asked to pay an entrance fee of either 50 Cordobas or 100. (Only pay 100 if you plan on eating at the restaurant. Show them your entrance ticket and you will receive a discount.)

1.5 km walk to the entrance of the Selva Negra

Once inside, walk up the hill to your left. After about 100 meters, you will arrive at the main lodge. Walk straight through here to get to the restaurant and lagoon, or stop at the front desk to pick up a map of surrounding hikes, book a nights stay, or arrange for a tour.


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Hiking Cerro Apante

3 - 4 Hour Day Trip From the Center of Matagalpa

When you arrive to Matagalpa, one of the first things that hits you smack in the face are the mountains all around you. The center of the city sits in a valley between the Dariense and Isabela mountain ranges.  It looks like a charming ski resort town that perpetually exists in summertime. 

If you happen to follow the mountains to the southwest, you will no doubt notice a giant cross that overlooks the town. Religion is huge in Nicaragua and all it takes is to look at literally ANY bus or taxi that passes you by to confirm that fact. They almost all display some reference, or blessing from God or Jesus prominently on their windshields. 

Whatever your religious beliefs, the cross is actually pretty cool to look at, and believe it or not, it isn't that difficult to reach - you just have to know what you're doing. It's pretty easy for travelers to get swindled by tour companies or guides who will charge you upwards of $15 per person to essentially just show you the way. 

And that way is this: There is a main shopping street in Matagalpa that runs North to South called >la calle principal
PICTURE

If you start at the Cathedral, you can ostensibly follow this street all the way South until you reach the trailhead to the Cerro Apante Hike. From the Cathedral, the walk should take you approximately 30-45 minutes. You will be able to tell exactly when you have left downtown because the road begins to slope upward and the pavement runs out. These two factors coupled, the incline and the dirt road will make you almost feel as if you have already begun your hike - which you have.

On the slope, you will pass local "quickie marts" called "Pulperias," countless stray dogs, people of all ages sitting outside of their houses, possibly smiling at you, possibly eyeing you. *Note: Whenever out and about in Nicaragua, a good rule of thumb is to never take anything of value with you - credit cards and passports should always remain out of sight and locked at your accomodation. This is especially true for when you leave the center of the city.

After about a 10-15 minute walk up the hill, you will come to a big sign on your left hand side announcing the start of the Cerro Apante Trail. The entrance fee is 30 cordobas. Despite telling you this, the man taking your money might still try to up-sell you on a guide for the low low price of $20 per person. ($1pp vs $20pp - you be the judge)

The full trail is 2.4 kilometers in length and runs in a circuit - which is nice given that you don't have to backtrack. The sign warns that it is a high level of difficulty hike, but that is an overestimation. If you are at all physically fit, you will be able to complete this hike without problem.

It starts out at a gradual incline through a grassy meadow and to your right, you can see the beginnings of a stream that is formed by a huge waterfall further up the trail. The path twists and winds under trees that provide shade for almost the entire way. 

You reach the waterfall about halfway into your hike. Before you get there, there are a few relatively steep climbs and portions of the trail where you have to cross water. There are large boulders to step on, however, and a wire that you can hold onto as you cross. (Thankfully your 30 cordobas have gone to pay for more than just the man in khaki to sit outside the entrance.) 

The views during this part of the trail are breathtaking and actually rival the view from the top. If you have all day, bring a bating suit and a picnic and bask in one of the few places you have found in Nicaragua where the flowing water by a city is not polluted or being used to wash clothes.

Depending on your fitness level, the next half of the hike should take you between 30 minutes to an hour. The inclines definitely start to rise, and you may find yourself having to hold onto what you can find to hoist yourself up. Make sure to wear loose clothing so as to maximize your ability to move comfortably.

Nearing the top, you will see a treeline with nothing beyond it. That is your goal - perfect timing too, because you're sure to be ready for it by now! There is a wooden deck that is built at the top that serves as a lookout point over Matagalpa. The view doesn't disappoint.

Check out more info about Nicaragua on our website www.vayavolunteers.com !

Regions and Recommendations

Southern Pacific Coast- Between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Nicaragua

• San Juan del Sur- Party beach town.
• Close to Playa Maderas-Our recommended beach. Great to watch surfing!
• Recommended hotel is Casa Maderas.
• Recommended hostel is Casa Oro in town or Casa de Olas with a pool
• Rivas- Is a city that connects the north with San Juan del Sur and the border. 
• Isla de Ometepe- Middle of Lake Nicaragua. It's an hour ferry ride from San Jorge Port near Rivas to Moyogalpa. You can also go to San Jose port on Ometepe, but there are not as many ferries. You can rent scooters on the island for the day. 
• Recommended hotel is La Omaja, located in Merida on Ometepe. 
• Recommended hostel is Hacienda Merida. 

Capital Region- Between Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua

• Managua-Capital. Has an international airport.
• Masaya- Artesian town, great market to buy souvenirs. 
• Laguna de Apoyo-A must see! It's a beautiful laguna in a volcanic crater with refreshing, clean water for swimming. There are beach clubs where you can pay $6.00 to stay for the day and use all their water toys, wifi and beach chairs. 
• Granada-Colonial City on Lake Nicaragua (no one swims in the lake from here)
• Recommended Hotels- Hotel Alambra or Hotel Granada. 
• Recommended Restaurant- El Garaje and The Garden Cafe
• We also recommend going to the Chocolate Museum and paying $6.00 to swim in their pool for the day. 
• Masaya Volcano National park- Look into an active volcano crater, hike in lava tubs, watch a colony of bats depart at night. Erik Tours is a great company to go with!

Northern Highlands- The mountains above Lake Managua

• Matagalpa-Cute, mountain town. Great climate that is much cooler than the south!
• Recommended hostels- Martina's Place and Buena Onda
• Recommended hotel- El Castillo
• Tour the coffee plantations and factories in the nearby mountains. 
• Visit the Selva Negra with a dry forest, rainforest and cloud forest at different elevations. 
• Jinotega- Coffee Country. Enjoy hiking and adventure sports from here. 
• Esteli- Located on the Pan American Highway. Know for cigars.
• Visit the nearby Miraflor Nature Reserve.

Northern Pacific Coast- North of Lake Managua on the Pacific Ocean side. 

• Leon- Cool University city that is 20 minutes away from excellent beaches, Poneloya and Las Peñitas. 
• You can go on The Flor de Cana Rum tours or go volcano boarding. 
• Recommended hostel- Bigfoot Hostel or Surfing Turtle Hostel in Leon. 
• Surfing Turtle Lodge is on the beach!
• Chinandega- Great surfing beaches!

Rio San Juan Region

• Solentiname Island- Island on Lake Nicaragua to the south. A car free island. 
• Gateway to the rainforest of the Indio Maiz Reserve
• Juigalpa

Caribbean Nicaragua- You have to fly from Managua to Bluefields. It’s the more indigenous side of the country. 

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Map of Nicaragua

 

Check out more info about Nicaragua on our website www.vayavolunteers.com !

Bus Stations in Managua

UCA- Universidad Centroamerica (Known to be a safe friendly station)

Connects Managua, Granada, Jinotepe, Diriamba, Leon

Mercado Mayoreo- eastern side close to the airport

Connects Managua, Matagalpa, Rama, San Carlos, Rio San Juan

Mercado Israel Levites- western side

Connects Managua, Leon, Chinandega

Mercado Huembes- southern part

Connects Managua, Rivas, San Jorge, Peñas Blancas

Transportation Routes and Prices

San Juan Del Sur and Playa Maderas

Rivas and Ometepe

Rivas and Granada

Granada and Laguna de Apoyo

Granada, Masaya, Managua

Leon and Surrounding Beaches

Estelí and Matagalpa

Matagalpa and Surrounding areas

Crossing the Border Between Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Tica Bus- $27.00 per person. Tica has it’s own bus station in San Jose and most cities in Nicaragua. The bus goes directly from San Jose, Costa Rica to Managua, Nicaragua. It takes about 7-8 hours. They collect your passports on the bus and walk you through customs and immigration at the border. You have to pay an additional road tax to cross on the bus that you don't have to pay if you walk across.  

Deldu Bus Station- $9.00 per person. Buses from the Deldu Station in San Jose leave for the border every hour. It goes to the border and then turns around and returns. You have to go through immigration and customs yourself. It is a short 5 minute walk to cross the border on foot and many people do it that way. There are chicken buses and taxis waiting on the Nicaraguan side waiting to take travelers to a number of cities. 

NOTE*You don’t have to worry about changing money as long as you have US dollars. The immigration officers all ask for dollars, not colones or cordobas.

*Be aware- There are many men at the border that seem helpful. They will try to show you where you need to go next or give you immigration forms to fill out. They will want a tip for the papers they give you or for walking you to the next location. They will also try to talk you into booking a taxi ride with them before you exit the immigration office. If you want the help or are looking for a taxi, then chose one man in the beginning and have him walk you through the whole process. 

On the Costa Rican Side

• Pay 8 dollars.
• Go to immigration office. Fill out immigration form and get exit stamp.
• Walk across the border.

On the Nicaraguan Side

• Show passport to gate attendant- enter Nicaragua
• Show passport to another person who gives you a piece of paper with a stamp on it.
• Take the piece of paper and your passport to the immigration office.
• Pay a $1.00 fee when you enter. Get a piece of paper to keep in your passport. 
• Fill out another immigration form and get an entrance stamp with a 90 day visa. Pay $12.00. They may ask you for a return ticket. 
• Go into another room where they randomly scan bags. 
• Exit and find a taxi or bus to your next destination.

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Cultural Differences- Transportation

• Taxis do not have meters or listed prices. You have to negotiate when you get in the cab so it’s best you know what the normal prices are so you don’t get overcharged. Make sure you agree on a price before you get in the cab and start going.  Taxis like to charge per person so when the driver gives you a price make sure you ask if that is the total or per person.

• Certified Taxis have different license plates than normal cars. Look for the two red stripes. 

• Just because you’ve paid for a taxi and organized where to go doesn’t mean the taxi is yours. If there are available seats in the cab they will pick up other passengers that are going your same direction. 

• The cars and taxis don’t use blinkers!! They have an intricate system of honking their horns before they do anything. In most cities, there are no traffic lights or stop signs. The cars just seem to know who has the right of way and the other direction honks as they approach. It’s all very confusing but seems to work for them. 

• There are no seat belts on any mode of transportation be it taxi, mini van or chicken bus. However in a country where you see whole families piled onto motorcycles or bikes, you quickly realize that safety is not their number one concern. On multiple occasions we’ve seen fathers peddle the bike and mothers sitting side saddle on the bar holding a child and balancing an infant on the handle bars. How they do it, I do not know!

• You pay for bus rides at random times during the trip so do not have your money out and ready to pay when you enter the bus. The bus attendant seems especially skilled at remembering who has paid and who hasn’t. It doesn’t seem very systematic or efficient, but I have to admit I’ve never seen them miss a rider or double charge a rider yet. 

• Just FYI, they sell motorcycles in appliance stores!