Hiking Cerro Apante

3 - 4 Hour Day Trip From the Center of Matagalpa

When you arrive to Matagalpa, one of the first things that hits you smack in the face are the mountains all around you. The center of the city sits in a valley between the Dariense and Isabela mountain ranges.  It looks like a charming ski resort town that perpetually exists in summertime. 

If you happen to follow the mountains to the southwest, you will no doubt notice a giant cross that overlooks the town. Religion is huge in Nicaragua and all it takes is to look at literally ANY bus or taxi that passes you by to confirm that fact. They almost all display some reference, or blessing from God or Jesus prominently on their windshields. 

Whatever your religious beliefs, the cross is actually pretty cool to look at, and believe it or not, it isn't that difficult to reach - you just have to know what you're doing. It's pretty easy for travelers to get swindled by tour companies or guides who will charge you upwards of $15 per person to essentially just show you the way. 

And that way is this: There is a main shopping street in Matagalpa that runs North to South called >la calle principal
PICTURE

If you start at the Cathedral, you can ostensibly follow this street all the way South until you reach the trailhead to the Cerro Apante Hike. From the Cathedral, the walk should take you approximately 30-45 minutes. You will be able to tell exactly when you have left downtown because the road begins to slope upward and the pavement runs out. These two factors coupled, the incline and the dirt road will make you almost feel as if you have already begun your hike - which you have.

On the slope, you will pass local "quickie marts" called "Pulperias," countless stray dogs, people of all ages sitting outside of their houses, possibly smiling at you, possibly eyeing you. *Note: Whenever out and about in Nicaragua, a good rule of thumb is to never take anything of value with you - credit cards and passports should always remain out of sight and locked at your accomodation. This is especially true for when you leave the center of the city.

After about a 10-15 minute walk up the hill, you will come to a big sign on your left hand side announcing the start of the Cerro Apante Trail. The entrance fee is 30 cordobas. Despite telling you this, the man taking your money might still try to up-sell you on a guide for the low low price of $20 per person. ($1pp vs $20pp - you be the judge)

The full trail is 2.4 kilometers in length and runs in a circuit - which is nice given that you don't have to backtrack. The sign warns that it is a high level of difficulty hike, but that is an overestimation. If you are at all physically fit, you will be able to complete this hike without problem.

It starts out at a gradual incline through a grassy meadow and to your right, you can see the beginnings of a stream that is formed by a huge waterfall further up the trail. The path twists and winds under trees that provide shade for almost the entire way. 

You reach the waterfall about halfway into your hike. Before you get there, there are a few relatively steep climbs and portions of the trail where you have to cross water. There are large boulders to step on, however, and a wire that you can hold onto as you cross. (Thankfully your 30 cordobas have gone to pay for more than just the man in khaki to sit outside the entrance.) 

The views during this part of the trail are breathtaking and actually rival the view from the top. If you have all day, bring a bating suit and a picnic and bask in one of the few places you have found in Nicaragua where the flowing water by a city is not polluted or being used to wash clothes.

Depending on your fitness level, the next half of the hike should take you between 30 minutes to an hour. The inclines definitely start to rise, and you may find yourself having to hold onto what you can find to hoist yourself up. Make sure to wear loose clothing so as to maximize your ability to move comfortably.

Nearing the top, you will see a treeline with nothing beyond it. That is your goal - perfect timing too, because you're sure to be ready for it by now! There is a wooden deck that is built at the top that serves as a lookout point over Matagalpa. The view doesn't disappoint.

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Regions and Recommendations

Southern Pacific Coast- Between the Pacific Ocean and Lake Nicaragua

• San Juan del Sur- Party beach town.
• Close to Playa Maderas-Our recommended beach. Great to watch surfing!
• Recommended hotel is Casa Maderas.
• Recommended hostel is Casa Oro in town or Casa de Olas with a pool
• Rivas- Is a city that connects the north with San Juan del Sur and the border. 
• Isla de Ometepe- Middle of Lake Nicaragua. It's an hour ferry ride from San Jorge Port near Rivas to Moyogalpa. You can also go to San Jose port on Ometepe, but there are not as many ferries. You can rent scooters on the island for the day. 
• Recommended hotel is La Omaja, located in Merida on Ometepe. 
• Recommended hostel is Hacienda Merida. 

Capital Region- Between Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua

• Managua-Capital. Has an international airport.
• Masaya- Artesian town, great market to buy souvenirs. 
• Laguna de Apoyo-A must see! It's a beautiful laguna in a volcanic crater with refreshing, clean water for swimming. There are beach clubs where you can pay $6.00 to stay for the day and use all their water toys, wifi and beach chairs. 
• Granada-Colonial City on Lake Nicaragua (no one swims in the lake from here)
• Recommended Hotels- Hotel Alambra or Hotel Granada. 
• Recommended Restaurant- El Garaje and The Garden Cafe
• We also recommend going to the Chocolate Museum and paying $6.00 to swim in their pool for the day. 
• Masaya Volcano National park- Look into an active volcano crater, hike in lava tubs, watch a colony of bats depart at night. Erik Tours is a great company to go with!

Northern Highlands- The mountains above Lake Managua

• Matagalpa-Cute, mountain town. Great climate that is much cooler than the south!
• Recommended hostels- Martina's Place and Buena Onda
• Recommended hotel- El Castillo
• Tour the coffee plantations and factories in the nearby mountains. 
• Visit the Selva Negra with a dry forest, rainforest and cloud forest at different elevations. 
• Jinotega- Coffee Country. Enjoy hiking and adventure sports from here. 
• Esteli- Located on the Pan American Highway. Know for cigars.
• Visit the nearby Miraflor Nature Reserve.

Northern Pacific Coast- North of Lake Managua on the Pacific Ocean side. 

• Leon- Cool University city that is 20 minutes away from excellent beaches, Poneloya and Las Peñitas. 
• You can go on The Flor de Cana Rum tours or go volcano boarding. 
• Recommended hostel- Bigfoot Hostel or Surfing Turtle Hostel in Leon. 
• Surfing Turtle Lodge is on the beach!
• Chinandega- Great surfing beaches!

Rio San Juan Region

• Solentiname Island- Island on Lake Nicaragua to the south. A car free island. 
• Gateway to the rainforest of the Indio Maiz Reserve
• Juigalpa

Caribbean Nicaragua- You have to fly from Managua to Bluefields. It’s the more indigenous side of the country. 

Check out more info about Nicaragua on our website www.vayavolunteers.com !

Map of Nicaragua

 

Check out more info about Nicaragua on our website www.vayavolunteers.com !

Bus Stations in Managua

UCA- Universidad Centroamerica (Known to be a safe friendly station)

Connects Managua, Granada, Jinotepe, Diriamba, Leon

Mercado Mayoreo- eastern side close to the airport

Connects Managua, Matagalpa, Rama, San Carlos, Rio San Juan

Mercado Israel Levites- western side

Connects Managua, Leon, Chinandega

Mercado Huembes- southern part

Connects Managua, Rivas, San Jorge, Peñas Blancas

Transportation Routes and Prices

San Juan Del Sur and Playa Maderas

Rivas and Ometepe

Rivas and Granada

Granada and Laguna de Apoyo

Granada, Masaya, Managua

Leon and Surrounding Beaches

Estelí and Matagalpa

Matagalpa and Surrounding areas

Crossing the Border Between Costa Rica and Nicaragua

Tica Bus- $27.00 per person. Tica has it’s own bus station in San Jose and most cities in Nicaragua. The bus goes directly from San Jose, Costa Rica to Managua, Nicaragua. It takes about 7-8 hours. They collect your passports on the bus and walk you through customs and immigration at the border. You have to pay an additional road tax to cross on the bus that you don't have to pay if you walk across.  

Deldu Bus Station- $9.00 per person. Buses from the Deldu Station in San Jose leave for the border every hour. It goes to the border and then turns around and returns. You have to go through immigration and customs yourself. It is a short 5 minute walk to cross the border on foot and many people do it that way. There are chicken buses and taxis waiting on the Nicaraguan side waiting to take travelers to a number of cities. 

NOTE*You don’t have to worry about changing money as long as you have US dollars. The immigration officers all ask for dollars, not colones or cordobas.

*Be aware- There are many men at the border that seem helpful. They will try to show you where you need to go next or give you immigration forms to fill out. They will want a tip for the papers they give you or for walking you to the next location. They will also try to talk you into booking a taxi ride with them before you exit the immigration office. If you want the help or are looking for a taxi, then chose one man in the beginning and have him walk you through the whole process. 

On the Costa Rican Side

• Pay 8 dollars.
• Go to immigration office. Fill out immigration form and get exit stamp.
• Walk across the border.

On the Nicaraguan Side

• Show passport to gate attendant- enter Nicaragua
• Show passport to another person who gives you a piece of paper with a stamp on it.
• Take the piece of paper and your passport to the immigration office.
• Pay a $1.00 fee when you enter. Get a piece of paper to keep in your passport. 
• Fill out another immigration form and get an entrance stamp with a 90 day visa. Pay $12.00. They may ask you for a return ticket. 
• Go into another room where they randomly scan bags. 
• Exit and find a taxi or bus to your next destination.

Check out more info about Nicaragua on our website www.vayavolunteers.com !

Cultural Differences- Transportation

• Taxis do not have meters or listed prices. You have to negotiate when you get in the cab so it’s best you know what the normal prices are so you don’t get overcharged. Make sure you agree on a price before you get in the cab and start going.  Taxis like to charge per person so when the driver gives you a price make sure you ask if that is the total or per person.

• Certified Taxis have different license plates than normal cars. Look for the two red stripes. 

• Just because you’ve paid for a taxi and organized where to go doesn’t mean the taxi is yours. If there are available seats in the cab they will pick up other passengers that are going your same direction. 

• The cars and taxis don’t use blinkers!! They have an intricate system of honking their horns before they do anything. In most cities, there are no traffic lights or stop signs. The cars just seem to know who has the right of way and the other direction honks as they approach. It’s all very confusing but seems to work for them. 

• There are no seat belts on any mode of transportation be it taxi, mini van or chicken bus. However in a country where you see whole families piled onto motorcycles or bikes, you quickly realize that safety is not their number one concern. On multiple occasions we’ve seen fathers peddle the bike and mothers sitting side saddle on the bar holding a child and balancing an infant on the handle bars. How they do it, I do not know!

• You pay for bus rides at random times during the trip so do not have your money out and ready to pay when you enter the bus. The bus attendant seems especially skilled at remembering who has paid and who hasn’t. It doesn’t seem very systematic or efficient, but I have to admit I’ve never seen them miss a rider or double charge a rider yet. 

• Just FYI, they sell motorcycles in appliance stores!
  

Cultural Differences-Food and Daily Life

• You will see many street venders selling bags of liquid. Yes, this is how they sell sodas, water and juices for people to drink on the streets. After you buy it, you bite the corner of the bag and suck the liquid out or sometimes the bag will come with a straw. Even if you go to a stand in one of the parks and ask for a soda, they will pull out a liter bottle, pour your portion in a bag with ice and give it to you to drink that way.

• Food is also frequently served in bags as well. 

• Drinks in glass bottles cost more than cans and you usually aren’t allowed to take the bottles. The restaurants and shops have to pay a fee per bottle for beverages that come in glass. When the restaurant or shop returns the empty bottles they get their money back. This is because they are good about cleaning and reusing the bottles. They don’t want them to end up getting thrown away. For liter bottles you can usually return them to the shop you purchased them at and get your bottle fee back. 

• One of the biggest shocks and hardest thing to train yourself to do while you are in Nicaragua is not throw your toilet paper in the toilet. When you see a sign that says don't put anything in the toilet, that includes toilet paper. The plumbing and sewage systems in the whole of the country are not able to deal with any paper in the pipes. Get used to seeing trashcans full of paper in every bathroom. 

• There are not addresses with a street name and number like Americans are used to in the states. Even though there are street names and some building numbers, it is not consistent throughout the city and the locals will not know what you are talking about if you use the address that way. Instead locals describe where the building is located with cardinal directions and surrounding well known landmarks in town. If you don’t know your cardinal directions use the setting sun for help! For example, our apartment's address was-The red building 1-1/2 blocks north of the old shoe store El Club.

• We thought surely the postal service would use a more reliable address system for the mail, but it turns out this is also their method. There are no mail boxes on the streets or mail slots in doors. You just have to be home to open the door at the exact time you happen to get mail. As you can guess there’s not a lot of junk mail, magazines and newspapers being delivered daily. 

• Not many places have air conditioning. You'll get used to seeing fans mounted on walls and sometimes ceilings to circulate the air.

• Most doors do not have buzzers, doorbells or knockers. You have to be creative and find a way to tap on the door through the metal gates. I’ve seen most people using their keys to tap on the metal.

• There are frequent water and power outages. Sometimes this is due to storms, other times it’s unknown what the cause is. The services can be shut off for hours at a time without warning. Keep in mind that some rural communities have only had water and electricity for the last 5-10 years so it’s not a big surprise that they are still working out the kinks. 

• In rural places the wildlife roams freely through the streets grazing on whatever they can find. It is unclear how they keep track of whose animal is whose or how they stop them from going too far, but no one seems particularly concerned with it.